The largest city in the north of the West Bank, and a commercial center which hosts the headquarters for some of Palestine's largest companies, Nablus is called by its residents "the uncrowned queen of Palestine". Sixty three kms north of Jerusalem, the city lies at the foot of two opposite mountains: Jerzim and Eibal. Historic information dates the city back to the Roman Emperor Titus who founded it in 72 AD in honor of his father Flavius Vespasian. It was called Flavia Neapolis (The New City) until 636 AD when the Arabs took the town and changed its name to Nablus.

Having lived in Palestine all my life, Nablus seemed to be everything but a tourist attraction. With its conservative society and lack of tourist facilities, it did not seem to be your regular tourism destination. Or at least so I thought until I was invited by the young couple (Nasser and Lana Abdul Hadi) who own the "Al Yasmeen Hotel and Souk." along with some 30other friends from Ramallah and Jerusalem to discover the secret wonders of Nablus and spend the weekend at the newly opened hotel.

We arrived at 17:00, and were greeted by a "Nablus 2000" neon sign. We gathered at the "Al Manara" bridge, a newly erected patio-bridge linking the hotel reception area with the rooms and overlooking the northern entrance of the historically famous and exotic "Khan at Tujjar" or the merchants market. With full view glass windows on both sides, the patio collects the evening and morning sun, abundant even in January, and transforms this bridge into a haven for instant relaxation. After we were allocated our rooms, we prepared ourselves for the first leg of our tour: the Turkish Bath (Hammam ash Shifa), five minutes walk from the hotel. Starting with the women, all 13 of us walked the small road leading from the hotel to the Hammam. Nablus being a closely knit community of over 150,000 residents where everyone knows everyone else, we were sure to stand out with our towels in hand and relatively loud voices as we excitedly followed our guide, Sameer, the man in charge of cultural activities at the hotel.

The small entrance to Hammam ash Shifa (literally meaning the Healing Bath) leads to a huge high-ceiling room with a small fountain in the center and high pedestals on all four sides. After a short wait we were led inside. Some of us were more prepared than others, but what you really need is a swim suit, slippers, a big towel, shampoo and underwear. The lofah and Nabulsi soap are part of the treat and you are handed one of each upon entrance. The usual sauna and steam rooms were our first stations, with lots of joking and talking as faces started to disappear in the steam. The next room was long and rectangular with a slab of stone in the center - floor level – where we all lay down taking in the heat coming from beneath the stone. Thirteen women in bathing suits or simply towels lying down across the room was the sight to meet the "Hammam woman" who came to give us a scrub. A quick massage for those interested followed by "Tikyees" or body scrubbing were a treat, after which each moved into a designated corner for a traditional bath using a stone urn and a metal pitcher .

Later on in the lobby, as we sat high up on the stone benches, we were offered the most smooth tasting Argeeleh or "hubbly bubbly" and mint tea while the water and the heat sank into our minutest pores. Leaving the Hammam for the men, we ran back to the hotel, all flushed and clean, where "Manakeesh" - pastry with white cheese and crushed thyme or zaatar - was waiting fresh from the "Mankal" or traditional brazier which exuded warmth in the "Manara Bridge" now that the cold of the winter night has started to creep in. Evening entertainment started at 22:30 with live music and a sumptuous dinner with traditional Palestinian food ranging from stuffed vine leaves and salads to sa-vory "sheep's tongues".

The morning program started at a leisurely pace with breakfast served in the big hall consisting of eggs made to a special recipe, Manakeesh, zaatar, labaneh, and other delicacies. For thoseof us who were hoping to lose weight this month it was a lost cause.

Argeeleh (hubbly bubbly) again at the Manara bridge with fresh coffee, milk, tea, and strawberries, and the winter morning sun seeping through the glass which overlooks a beautiful green domed mosque on the one side, and the Eibal mountain on the other. No one was willing to move. Instead of the 12:00 noon tour of the old city, it was moved to 14:00 as our expert guide took us through the market and some of the old streets and mansions. The tastes and feelings linger on, even one month after the experience. The delicious taste of fresh bread heated on the brazier, the traditional Nabulsi white cheese grilled and served as an appetizer, the smell of hot coals, the morning and afternoon sun, the Argeeleh, and most of all, the excellent and friendly service, all linger on in the memory of the senses making any other daily experience fades in comparison .

(Similar weekend offers are open to the public for a minimum of 10 and maximum of 40 persons at rates ranging between $ 80 for a triple room to $ 130 in a single room. For more information con-tact Al Yasmeen Hotel +972 9 2333555 fax +972 9 2333666 email: yasmeen@p-ol.com and website: www.alyasmeen.com.)