This Week in Palestine -  by the Phantom Diner
Issue no. 13 - July 1999
Restaurant Review by the Phantom Diner

Beit Jala's Orthodox Club

There are very few places in Palestine where those who were not born into a Palestinian family can enjoy the delicacies of the legendary village hearth. But at Beit Jala's Orthodox Club, stuffed breads and meats are baked to savory perfection. For the brave, the club offers sheep necks filled with rice and meat, or karshat, a rare restaurant find of sheep entrails overflowing with spices and stuffing. For the faint of heart who simply want the traditional Palestinian taste, the Club offers a delicious fukhara - chicken or meat oven-steamed with vegetables inside a clay pot - or musakhan taboon - chicken, onions, and the spicy-sour flavoring of sumak. The Club is nothing fancy; it is decorated with simply wooden tables and a traditional motif. Prices are reasonable, with most entrees within ten dollars. Baked dinner pastries can be had for much less. The service is also simple -paper menus and a family feel are unpretentious and even welcoming. This restaurant may seem ordinarym, but for those who are looking for the local flavor of Palestine the

Club is a must-visit. Simply put, I know of no other area restaurant that offers sheep's head soup. Even better, the Club delivers.
Location: Two kilometers from the Jerusalem- Bethlehem-Beit Jala intersection, on the right of Beit Jala's main thoroughfare, phone: 02-274193
Menu: strictly homegrown Palestinian fare (although that does include a dressed hotdog option).
Alcohol served.
Phantom Diner Rating: +++
Rating Scale:
++++ next to heaven
+++ a place to come back to
++ if you're hungry you'll eat anywhere
+ not a ghost of a chance

The Argeeleh or Hubbly Bubbly
From the strictly patriarchal cafés to the modern coffee shops
A couple of years ago, in an unprecedented episode, a group of young men and women walked into a traditional all-male café in Amman, sat down, and ordered Argeeleh for everyone, including the women. The café owner obliged, much to his, and his clients', dismay and amazement. This may not have been the turning point, but it certainly was a landmark in the quick spread of the traditionally male-dominated pastime into restaurants and modern coffee shops, to become a trend amongst the young and old, men and women alike. This phenomenon became widespread all over the Arab world, and slowly the sight of young women smoking Argeeleh in public became very common and acceptable in the primarily conservative Arab societies. Of course, Palestinian women in Nablus and Syrian women in Hyms consider smoking Argeeleh as one of the most common pastimes since many years and they organize special all- women parties where they share this habit in the privacy of their homes. However, the transition of Argeeleh smoking for women from the private to the public space is very recent.
The art of Argeeleh has also witnessed another development in recent years, which has accompanied its tremendous expansion. This has been the development of "M'assel" or honey-fruit flavored tobacco which does not require the same time and experience to prepare, and is less strong than the original Turkish pure tobacco which has been used for the Argeeleh for many years. "M'assel" can be found in many flavors: apple, strawberry, mint, cocktail, etc… and is the most popular amongst the young.
Even though it might seem complicated at first sight, Argeeleh is not very difficult to prepare. There are many shops where you can buy one, though it's better to learn more about its features by trying it a few times to get the feel of it and familiarize yourself with the difference between a good quality and a bad quality Argeeleh. The most important aspect is that the air needs to flow smoothly without any leakage in the "barbeesh" or hose. Also, for hygienic purposes, it is better to use a plastic "mabsam" or mouthpiece which is usually offered with the Argeeleh.
Nowadays, you will find that the majority of garden restaurants and coffee shops offer Argeeleh. However, they will not all taste the same, and some of them might get to your head very quickly, so it's better to be careful particularly the first time you try it. The difference depends on the Argeeleh man (Tumbakji) who prepares it. In Ramallah, the best places for Argeeleh are Al Aseel coffee shop, al Bardauni restaurant, the Grand Park hotel, and Khuzama restaurant, where you will find the best (Tumbakjis) in town.
Argeeleh usually costs anywhere between NIS 10 - 20, and you will need to tip the (Tumbakji) somewhere between NIS 5 - 10 according to how much you enjoy the service.
Of course, just like cigarettes, smoking Argeeleh is harmful to your health, even though it can do wonders to your social life.
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