Restaurant Review by the Phantom Diner
Beit Jala's Orthodox Club
There are very few places in Palestine where
those who were not born into a Palestinian family can enjoy the delicacies
of the legendary village hearth. But at Beit Jala's Orthodox Club, stuffed
breads and meats are baked to savory perfection. For the brave, the club
offers sheep necks filled with rice and meat, or karshat, a rare restaurant
find of sheep entrails overflowing with spices and stuffing. For the faint
of heart who simply want the traditional Palestinian taste, the Club offers
a delicious fukhara - chicken or meat oven-steamed with vegetables inside
a clay pot - or musakhan taboon - chicken, onions, and the spicy-sour flavoring
of sumak. The Club is nothing fancy; it is decorated with simply wooden
tables and a traditional motif. Prices are reasonable, with most entrees
within ten dollars. Baked dinner pastries can be had for much less. The
service is also simple -paper menus and a family feel are unpretentious
and even welcoming. This restaurant may seem ordinarym, but for those who
are looking for the local flavor of Palestine the
Club is a must-visit. Simply put, I know of
no other area restaurant that offers sheep's head soup. Even better, the
Club delivers.
Location: Two kilometers from the Jerusalem-
Bethlehem-Beit Jala intersection, on the right of Beit Jala's main thoroughfare,
phone:
02-274193
Menu: strictly homegrown Palestinian
fare (although that does include a dressed hotdog option).
Alcohol served.
Phantom Diner Rating:
+++
Rating Scale:
++++ next to heaven
+++ a place to come back to
++ if you're hungry you'll eat anywhere
+ not a ghost of a chance
The Argeeleh
or Hubbly Bubbly
From the strictly patriarchal cafés
to the modern coffee shops
A couple of years ago, in an unprecedented
episode, a group of young men and women walked into a traditional all-male
café in Amman, sat down, and ordered Argeeleh for everyone, including
the women. The café owner obliged, much to his, and his clients',
dismay and amazement. This may not have been the turning point, but it
certainly was a landmark in the quick spread of the traditionally male-dominated
pastime into restaurants and modern coffee shops, to become a trend amongst
the young and old, men and women alike. This phenomenon became widespread
all over the Arab world, and slowly the sight of young women smoking Argeeleh
in public became very common and acceptable in the primarily conservative
Arab societies. Of course, Palestinian women in Nablus and Syrian women
in Hyms consider smoking Argeeleh as one of the most common pastimes since
many years and they organize special all- women parties where they share
this habit in the privacy of their homes. However, the transition of Argeeleh
smoking for women from the private to the public space is very recent.
The art of Argeeleh has also witnessed another
development in recent years, which has accompanied its tremendous expansion.
This has been the development of "M'assel" or honey-fruit flavored tobacco
which does not require the same time and experience to prepare, and is
less strong than the original Turkish pure tobacco which has been used
for the Argeeleh for many years. "M'assel" can be found in many flavors:
apple, strawberry, mint, cocktail, etc… and is the most popular amongst
the young.
Even though it might seem complicated at first
sight, Argeeleh is not very difficult to prepare. There are many shops
where you can buy one, though it's better to learn more about its features
by trying it a few times to get the feel of it and familiarize yourself
with the difference between a good quality and a bad quality Argeeleh.
The most important aspect is that the air needs to flow smoothly without
any leakage in the "barbeesh" or hose. Also, for hygienic purposes, it
is better to use a plastic "mabsam" or mouthpiece which is usually offered
with the Argeeleh.
Nowadays, you will find that the majority
of garden restaurants and coffee shops offer Argeeleh. However, they will
not all taste the same, and some of them might get to your head very quickly,
so it's better to be careful particularly the first time you try it. The
difference depends on the Argeeleh man (Tumbakji) who prepares it. In Ramallah,
the best places for Argeeleh are Al Aseel coffee shop, al Bardauni restaurant,
the Grand Park hotel, and Khuzama restaurant, where you will find the best
(Tumbakjis) in town.
Argeeleh usually costs anywhere between NIS
10 - 20, and you will need to tip the (Tumbakji) somewhere between NIS
5 - 10 according to how much you enjoy the service.
Of course, just like cigarettes, smoking Argeeleh
is harmful to your health, even though it can do wonders to your social
life.