It is impossible to visit Palestine without being effected by the political situation - Israeli checkpoints, the grim mood and a guarded atmosphere can all mar the trip of the casual tourist. But for those who want to get more involved, even the eating experience can be made political. Tucked away in the sixth floor of a dusty Ramallah building is one collective effort to build Palestine and opportunities for Palestinian women - that has good food, too. Taboon restaurant is run and staffed entirely by women, serving up the best Palestinian treats to those who want a home-cooked meal away from home. The menu varies from day to day - stuffed goat's neck and fish on Fridays, a soft, tasty chicken or greens over rice or elected baked, stuffed Palestinian meals on other days. A plate will fuel you, sticking to your ribs for the rest of your tour. Drinks are simple - coffee, tea or soda - but the picture-window view of Palestine's rolling hills will refresh you more. Mind you, Taboon is nothing fancy. Paper placemats do the job. One server works the lunchtime crowd. And sometimes the rice is a little tough or the meat not quite flavored. But all the proceeds from your meal - entrees range from $8 to $13, salads around $3 - will go back into building the Palestinian women's movement. And that is satisfying.

Location: Al-Ahliah College Street, Ramallah Menu: Arabic home cooking. No alcohol served.

Phantom Diner Rating: ++1/2

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Note: The views expressed in this section reflect the Phantom Diner's personal experiences in the restaurants featured.